In the first of our ‘Exploring Whisky’ blog series, we looked back to the origins of distillation. We discussed the stills used to create medicines and balms in early civilisations, the scientific advances made by alchemists in the Hellenistic era, and the development and expansion of science by leading chemists during the Islamic Golden Age.

By the time an understanding of distillation had diffused across Europe in the Middle Ages, it became indisputable that the process was being used to create alcohol. Often made by the careful heating of wine in an ‘Alembic Still’, the resulting distillate became known as aqua vitae, and appears increasingly frequently in Europe from the 12th century.

In today’s article we look at how this pure spirit, often distilled with nuts, berries or spices, evolved into Scotch whisky as we know it today.

It’s most likely that the Alembic Still came to the British Isles by way of travelling monks. In Scotland, the art of distillation then remained the preserve of the religious houses until they faded away following the Scottish Reformation of the latter half of the sixteenth century.

The first written evidence of aqua vitae in Scotland appears in the 1492 Exchequer Rolls (Accounts of the Crown) and relates to John Cor, a monk from Lindores Abbey, who had been commissioned by the King to make aqua vitae from eight bolls (an early Scottish measure) of malt.

Despite being distilled from malted barley, this spirit would have been very different to the Scotch whisky we know and love today. Part of what would transform the early aqua vitae—and remove the need for additives of one kind or another—was maturing the spirit in wooden barrels.

This probably became common practice over the course of the nineteenth century. Dr Johnson’s 1755 Dictionary of the English Language certainly makes no reference to barrels when he lists:

Usqueba’ugh. n. [An Irish and Erse word, which signifies the water of life.] It is a compounded distilled spirit, being drawn on aromaticks; and the Irish sort is particularly distinguished for its pleasant and mild flavour. The Highland sort is somewhat hotter; and, by corruption, in Scottish they call it whisky

- Dr Johnson’s Dictionary of the English Language 1755

Yet by 1879 a book called ‘Truths about Whisky’ (jointly published by four Dublin distilleries) could wax lyrical about the impact of maturation:

The grain constituents of perfectly new Whisky are not palatable in the estimation of people in general; but after about a year the Whisky may said to be drinkable, after about two years to be good, and after about three years to be as good as anything with which the average consumer is likely to become acquainted. Those, however, who have only drunk three-year-old Whisky, can scarcely form an idea of the effect of longer keeping, always in the wood. […] When a bottle of such Whisky is opened, it literally, like fine old Burgundy, fills the room with its fragrance, and that fragrance is more delicate than anyone who is unacquainted with it, or who is acquainted only with the smell of common so-called Whisky, could by any possibility conceive.

- Truths About Whisky 1879

Whether it was through conscious experimentation — or simply forgetting the cask in the basement — maturation quickly became a vital part in the process of making Scotch whisky. During the late 1800s, ex-sherry transport casks became increasingly accessible. Although these were originally used for storage or shipping, the incredible impact they had on the flavour was soon realised and sherry-matured Scotch has been a firm favourite ever since. Nowadays, distilleries have come to understand the impact of different aspects of the barrel: The oak used, the number of previous fills, whether the wood has been treated by fire and even the size of the barrel are all known to impact the final flavour. We will explore these factors and the fascinating scientific processes behind maturation later in this series.

Find further reading links below, or explore the diversity in Scotch whisky with our Six Styles of Scotch blind tasting set.

Further Reading;

• The Science and Commerce of Whisky - Ian Buxton & Paul Hughes
• Accidental Aging and the Birth of Whiskey As We Know It - Angels Envy
• Truth About Whisky 1879 - Printed by Sutton Sharpe & Co

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